How We Visited Aalborg, Denmark
We were really curious about what Aalborg would be like.
Aalborg became an unexpected stop as we made our way through Jutland. Here's a look at everything we experienced while we were there.
Given the fact that our Denmark itinerary was packed, it was not that surprising that we put Aalborg in the 'we'd love to see it, but probably won't have time' column. Lucie was confident we could fit Aalborg in, but I was more realistic this time and didn't share her optimism. I knew our travel pace over the past days had been slower than expected, and Aalborg, as Jutland's second-largest city, had plenty to explore.
When we finally crossed Jutland and arrived in Skagen, the weather took a turn. The forecast looked grim, and we were forced to retreat from Denmark's northernmost point. With no alternative, we had to head south to escape the heavy rain pounding the tip of North Jutlandic Island.
So, our attention shifted to Aarhus that day. However, our earlier-than-expected departure from Skagen left us with time to spare. Since Aalborg was en route, Lucie took her opportunity to convince me we didn't need to rush south yet. Her main point was that the weather looked decent for a while and that, with a few spots to see, it could be a worthwhile detour.
What remained uncertain was how we'd spend our time in Aalborg. Since we hadn't planned much and had only a handful of notes in our itinerary, we decided to trust our gut and let the day take shape. So here's how it went.
Even in lively Aalborg, we stumbled upon a peaceful, quaint spot like this one.
Taking a Side Trip to Lindholm Hoje
Even though we've been in Denmark for a few days now, we still haven't properly explored its Viking past. It was partly because Funen and Zealand offer more in that regard and partly due to our focus on Jutland's stunning coastline. And with Wadden Sea NP and Thy NP, who could blame us?
Technically, our only Viking experience so far was the medieval town of Ribe, which was once a major trading hub. But honestly, aside from that, there wasn't much Viking history to see beyond a small museum and a closed-off living village in off-season mode.
Before anything else, we made a stop at Lindholm Hoje, an ancient Viking burial site.
Our second, or first proper, encounter with Viking history was in Norresundby, just outside Aalborg. This little site was known as Lindholm Hoje. The museum wasn't open that Monday, but with the burial grounds accessible, so we didn't hesitate and made our way there.
Lucie's optimistic weather outlook was a little off, so we ended up spending 30 or 40 minutes walking in the rain around the grounds. It wasn't a big inconvenience, as we had rain gear, and the well-covered grassy trails were easy to walk through.
Since it rained, Lindholm Høje was without any tourists.
Naturally, we felt some disappointment about missing Vikingemuseet Lindholm Høje. But knowing that bigger sites like Jelling Monuments and Trelleborg Fortress were ahead, the feeling quickly passed. Another Viking-related site we truly liked was the Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde. We had Roskilde on our list mostly for the UNESCO-listed Roskilde Cathedral, but this museum with Viking boats was also pretty cool.
Even without the museum, Lindholm Hoje turned out to be a fascinating glimpse into Viking history and culture. Despite the rain, we enjoyed wandering the site. The ancient cemetery remained well-preserved by shifting sands, which, ironically, led to the settlement's abandonment around the 1200s CE.
Lindholm Hoje served as a cemetery even before the Viking era.
More than 700 graves were uncovered here by archaeologists, spanning both the Iron Age, where older graves appear as mounds and the Viking Age, where newer graves feature stone settings and even stone ships.
Even without towering walls or buildings, walking between the tombstones alone was incredible (only some goats kept us company in the rain). When we had seen enough, we made our way back to the car and resumed our journey to Aalborg.
Driving to Aalborg
After that, we hopped into our car and made our way to Aalborg's city center. The drive itself took just 15 minutes, but since our journey technically started in Skagen, the total was closer to 90 minutes. If you're coming from Aarhus, expect around 90 minutes, while Odense is nearly three hours away.
We drove to Aalborg via Limfjordsbroen, which can lift to allow ships to pass through.
Even though it was a regular weekday and we had to reach the downtown area, traffic wasn't an issue, and driving through the city was far easier than expected. Since Aalborg was the first large Danish city we explored (apart from briefly passing through Esbjerg), we weren't sure what to expect, but it turned out just fine.
Aalborg is well-connected to major Danish cities like Copenhagen, Odense, and Aarhus by rail, making train travel a convenient option. However, renting a car in Aalborg or elsewhere offers far more flexibility for exploring Jutland. Without it, visiting smaller locations like Rubjerg Knude Fyr or Hantsholm Fortress would have been impossible in the time we had.
Even on a Monday morning, the city center wasn't very crowded with traffic.
Parking in Aalborg
Typically, I'd look for a free parking lot farther from the center, but we didn't have time for that today. With Aalborg's city center on Limfjord's southern side, we searched there and ultimately parked at Salling P-Hus, right in the heart of the city.
We chose to park our car at Salling Parking because of its convenient location in the city center.
Since Salling is a major shopping mall in Aalborg's city center, we expected modern parking, but the garage was dim, had cramped spaces, and didn't quite match our expectations. Still, it felt secure enough.
The payment process was simple. A camera scanned our license plate upon entry, so all we had to do was find a parking spot. After exploring Aalborg, we paid when we returned and were ready to leave.
We found a payment terminal near the mall entrance, where all we had to do was enter our license plate number correctly and tap the terminal with our watch to pay. At the time, the hourly rate was 13 DKK, which seemed fair given the location.
Shopping in Salling
Finding parking in Aalborg was simple, and since we used the mall's lot, we had to walk through it to leave. If you're thinking of shopping in Aalborg, Salling is easily the most accessible choice.
Since we were already there and had never visited a large Danish shopping mall before, we decided to stroll around and see what shops were there. Unsurprisingly, nothing inside stood out; it was just another European mall. So, at least we had some fun discovering Danish brands we hadn't seen before. Interestingly, the open store layout confused us a bit, though that was probably just us.
After making our way through Salling, we were ready to explore Aalborg.
Walking Along Aalborg's Waterfront
With our parking spot only 500 meters from the waterfront, it was clear that we'd head there from Salling. We always enjoy walking near the water, whether it's a peaceful pathway with just sea air and squawking gulls or, as in Aalborg's case, a scenic spot with some sights to admire.
A sunny day would have made exploring Aalborg's waterfront much more enjoyable, but we were just happy it stopped raining.
The coolest fact we learned about Limfjord is that it has only linked the North Sea and Kattegat since 1825, after a powerful storm caused flooding that created a passage on the west side, separating Jutland and forming North Jutlandic Island.
We already knew this since, on our way to Grenen, we crossed Limfjord via the Thyborøn-Agger ferry (though a road bridge was also an option, with a similar travel time). Anyway, here in Aalborg, we simply drove across the bridge linking it to Nørresundby.
On Monday morning, the waterfront was almost deserted, and aside from some construction work, it would have been entirely peaceful. After a short walk from Salling, we appeared close to the Utzon Center, so we made it our first stop.
Too bad the schooner in front of the Utzon Center had its sails down.
While Lucie was absorbed in architecture, my interest was piqued by the docked schooner Brita Leth. The museum's ship-like design made for a fitting backdrop, and I spent the next moments capturing both in a single frame.
Other spots worth checking out include the Utzon Center, House of Music, and Østre Havn, which we'll cover next. If you want to explore Limfjord more intensively and you're visiting Aalborg in summer, you can always take a dip in Limfjord at Vestre Fjordpark, located 3 kilometers west of the Utzon Center.
Admiring Architecture of the Utzon Center
Our must-see list in Aalborg featured only one place, the Utzon Center, Jørn Utzon's final project. This Danish architect's name might not mean much at first, but his work is instantly recognizable once you learn what he created. Our first encounter with Jørn Utzon's name came after we left New Zealand and landed in Sydney. Once we stood in front of the Sydney Opera House, we found out he was its architect.
Seeing the Utzon Center brought back memories of our visit to the Sydney Opera House years ago.
Although born in Copenhagen, Utzon spent his early years in Aalborg, Denmark. Growing up, he was immersed in sailing culture. His father worked as a naval architect and boat designer, and Limfjord was filled with sailing boats back then, explaining his deep interest in maritime design.
The first thing we noticed was that, unlike the monumental Sydney Opera House, the Utzon Center is much smaller and feels far more intimate. Since we're not architecture experts, we didn't have high expectations, so all we can say is that the front looks really cool (probably even more so for those sailing across Limfjord), while the other sides are rather plain.
As the Utzon Center was closed, I could only manage to take this photo through the window.
Sadly, the Utzon Center was closed on Monday, so we could only appreciate it from the outside, sneaking a small peek inside through the window facing the waterfront. If you visit during opening hours, you'll find exhibits on Jørn Utzon, the Sydney Opera House, and architecture in general, along with temporary displays (I recall something on skyscrapers when we were there).
Admission to the Utzon Center costs 110 DKK for adults, and the museum is open Tuesday through Sunday, typically from 10 AM to 5 PM, though hours may vary.
This was actually our very first look at the Utzon Center.
Taking a Photo of House of Music
As we continued, we arrived at the House of Music, one of the most distinctive buildings we encountered in Denmark. Though we weren't there for a concert or event and merely passed by, even from the outside, it was a sight worth seeing.
The House of Music was just a short walk from the Utzon Center.
I love photographing structures like this because modern design offers endless perspectives, which made the House of Music my favorite spot in Aalborg. The best view was right in front of the concert hall; though some repairs forced me to improvise a little, I still got a nice shot.
Musikkens Hus looked like a whole different building from the back.
Wandering Around Ostre Havn
Østre Havn may not be a typical sightseeing spot, but it was easily one of the most interesting places we saw in Aalborg. This former industrial harbor has been redeveloped into a mixed-use district, and while it still had some unfinished areas and felt a bit empty, the result of the transformation looked pretty remarkable.
What was once an industrial port is now a modern residential area.
Being close to the sea while in the city center seems incredible, though, admittedly, as tourists, we see only the advantages, not the downsides. The redevelopment of Østre Havn, driven by Aalborg's economic shift, was just one of several such examples we found in Denmark.
We encountered several locations that had been reinvented after losing their function, such as Nyborg's port, which transformed into a residential district with a beautiful marina following the construction of the Great Belt Bridge.
When we looked a bit further, we saw that a large part of Aalborg is still very industrial.
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Strolling Around Old Town
With the rest of the port still heavily industrial, there was no real reason to head further east, so we chose to loop back via Østerbro Street to finally explore Aalborg's Old Town.
This view of Vor Frue Kirke was among our favorites in Aalborg's old town.
After exploring the ultra-modern, fast-evolving part of the city, we reached the 15th-century old town with charming squares, half-timbered houses, winding streets, and medieval churches. The fact that these two vastly different areas were less than a 10-minute walk apart was truly astonishing.
The half-timbered houses were absolutely stunning.
Just as Aalborg's waterfront had been quiet that morning, the same was true for the Old Town. But after dealing with Prague's busy streets daily, the slower pace was something we happily embraced.
Budolfi Cathedral was open and free to enter, so we decided to go in.
We visited the Gothic-style Budolfi Cathedral, the yellow-fronted Old City Hall, the charming Aalborg Kloster, and the beautifully restored Jensens Bøfhus, now home to a steakhouse. The most picturesque street was definitely Peder Barkes Gade, featuring Vor Frue Kirke and a row of tiny houses. We also admired the striking Renaissance-era merchant house, Jens Bang's Stenhus.
Jens Bang's Stenhus was built in the 17th century.
When we walked past Danske Bank and saw the ATM facing the street, we withdrew some cash just in case. But it turned out to be pointless, as Denmark was mostly cashless, so we had to use it for food on our second-to-last day in Copenhagen.
Discovering Aalborg's Murals
At the time of our visit, Aalborg already had around 80 to 90 murals spread across the city. On the way there, Lucie suggested that some of them should be really cool, but I brushed it off, thinking murals were fairly common these days.
Lucie really liked this abstract mural we discovered near the Old Town.
Aalborg is certainly among the top cities for street art, with the Out in the Open project bringing in famous artists to revamp its duller corners into a colorful outdoor gallery.
We didn't follow any guide and just wandered freely, so we only saw a portion of the murals throughout the city. Still, their sheer size made them easy to spot. The ones we spotted were pretty epic, and even if you're not really into street art, they were worth checking out.
It took us a moment to realize that this wasn't an ad, but a huge mural of the Limfjord Bridge.
Stopping at Aalborghus Slot
We made our way along Østergade Street back to the waterfront, turned right, and bid Limfjord a final farewell. But before heading back, one last attraction remained on our Aalborg list, the Renaissance-era Aalborghus Slot, built between 1539 and 1555 by King Christian III as a fortress.
Had we not known Aalborghus Slot was there, we might have walked right past it, it looked quite modest from the street.
We went into this visit with practically zero prior knowledge of the castle, largely due to the scarcity of information, meaning we weren't sure what we'd see.
As we entered Aalborghus Anlæg, we quickly spotted an interpretive sign explaining that visitors are welcome to roam the grounds, but the castle, which houses administrative offices, is off-limits to the public.
There wasn't a whole lot to see at Aalborg Castle.
Beyond the grounds, which are open year-round, we got a brief glimpse into the dungeon and casemates, but that was all. It was slightly disappointing, though with Frederiksborg and Kronborg still ahead on our itinerary, it wasn't a huge letdown.
Hotels in Aalborg
Most hotels in Aalborg sit within the city center on Limfjord's southern side. Though it's one of Denmark's largest cities, we found its center surprisingly compact and walkable, making location less of a concern. If it were up to us, we'd pick a hotel within Vesterbro, Aalborg train station, Limfjord, and Karolinelund area.
Some of the most popular hotels in this area include KOMPAS Hotel Aalborg and Milling Hotel Gestus. KOMPAS has a sleek, modern look, whereas Gestus occupies a more traditional building. Both offer on-site parking for a fee, which is handy in this part of town. Cabinn Aalborg is a simpler, budget-friendly option that is ideal for saving money.
Although Cabinn Aalborg is one of the budget options, it’s right in the heart of the city.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.
