Despite the gloomy weather, we had a great time exploring Skagen.

Reaching Skagen was one of the most memorable moments of our journey across Jutland. So, how did we spend our time there?

The coastal town of Skagen, located in North Jutland, was on our itinerary for two reasons. It's Denmark's northernmost point, where the Baltic and North Sea meet, and to us, that sounded like a pretty interesting combination. Plus, it marked the end of our trip across Jutland, which turned out to be quite an experience.

Driving toward Skagen, it definitely felt like we were heading to one of Denmark's outermost points. Darkness had already set in after we watched the sunset at Rubjerg Knude Fyr, and once we got past Hjørring, the feeling shifted.

Especially after turning onto Road 40, which connects this town with the rest of Denmark, the darkened Jutland landscape gave off an eerie vibe. It was partly because the evening had draped its shadow over everything but also because the road was so empty. We knew Skagen wasn't Copenhagen, but it still felt like we were the only ones driving there that night.

I was behind the wheel while Lucie stared at the forecast, which predicted more than 20mm of rain for North Jutland tomorrow. The only rain-free period was just around sunset, so most of the journey was spent talking through our plans for the next day. Our prospects didn't look ideal, but we made a plan to catch the sunrise at Grenen, ideally without getting soaked, and then take things as they came based on the weather.

A lighthouse, a World War II bunker, and a sandy beach - that's why we came to Skagen.

Where We Stayed in Skagen

We arrived in Skagen late in the day, checked into our hotel, and immediately crashed into bed after being on the road since 5 AM and feeling drained. With just two criteria for our stay - having parking and not costing too much - Lucie reserved a room at Hotel Strandly Skagen right after we left Rubjerg Knude.

Our expectations weren't too high, but the room was really nice and much more spacious than we needed, and since we also got the last available parking spot, we were really happy with it. The best part was the delicious breakfast, which we savored the next morning while keeping warm indoors as the storm passed.

Our room at Strandly Skagen Hotel was more than adequate.

Lucie also pointed out that staying at Brøndums Hotel would be really cool, given its connection to the Skagen painters, but since it was nearly twice the price, we decided to skip it. Anyway, if you're looking for a place with plenty of charm and a nostalgic feel, this could be a great choice.

Brøndums Hotel was widely frequented by the Skagen Painters.

For a reasonably priced stay in Skagen, there's Danhostel Skagen, which offers the usual amenities for this kind of lodging, though it's located slightly outside the town center.

Things to Do in Skagen

Whether Skagen is a stop on your cruise or you arrive like we did on a Denmark road trip, there’s certainly plenty to see and do. While we liked exploring the town itself, we were even more excited about wandering through the untouched nature, enjoying the vast sea views, and spotting local wildlife (this was one of our final opportunities to spot seals in Jutland).

Visiting Grenen

Waking up early while it was still dark had become the pattern of our past few days in Jutland. This time, though, our reason was purely practical. Unlike the previous morning, when we hoped to catch the sunrise at Bovbjerg Knude, today we just wanted to avoid hiking in the rain.

Since the weather report was spot on, we hopped in the car and drove three kilometers to Grenen's trailhead. Normally, we'd walk, as there's a great coastal trail, but this time, we preferred not to waste time.

This is Grenen, the meeting point of the Baltic and North Seas.

For a full account of our hike to Grenen, check out our post; we'll keep it brief here. The trail is a 1.5-kilometer in-and-out path along a sandy beach, ending at Denmark's northernmost tip, where the North and Baltic Seas collide. It's an interesting hike, so take a look at our post for more info.

Grenen is not just about the beach walk. It's also a popular spot for bird and seal watching. Even at this hour, we noticed birders sitting on the sand dune at the northern edge of the strand, enjoying the daily spectacle seabirds bring to Skagen Odde's shores.

Apart from the seals, we saw plenty of seabirds at Grenen.

While the squawking gulls were fun to watch, our attention was on the resting seals just a few dozen meters from the peninsula's northern edge. Unfortunately, the moment was brief, as some tourists disregarded the warnings and attempted a selfie with them and their dog. Predictably, the seals got startled, dove into the water, and didn't return for the rest of our visit.

We saw this World War II bunker near the trailhead at Grenen.

Another interesting sight here was the ruined WW2 bunkers, particularly the one that was mostly submerged when we arrived due to high tide. Besides the abandoned bunkers, there was a small museum housed in one near the main parking lot. It wasn't open this early in the morning, but having already seen Tirpitz Bunker and Hanstholm Fortress, we had a good grasp of their history and function.

Walking Around Skagen

After driving back from Grenen, we parked in front of the hotel again, realizing there wasn't much reason to return to our room or go to breakfast right away. Lucie argued that we should eat, and while I agreed, I also felt the weather was more pressing.

The heavy gray skies looked ominous, but since the rain hadn't started, we chose to take a morning stroll instead. Since we were in the town center, everything was nearby, so we could get started with exploring right away.

This was one of the cutest houses we came across in Skagen's town center.

Anyway, we walked through Skagen. It was still early in the morning, and the town center was just beginning to wake up. Other than a few vans making deliveries to the local bakery and butcher, the entire town center was completely silent.

It didn't bother us as we let our minds wander back, imagining the town's quietness in the era of the Skagen Painters (about whom we'll talk soon). Neither Lucie nor I particularly enjoy early mornings, but it's moments like these that make them worthwhile.

Skagen doesn't have a traditional medieval center, unlike Ribe, yet its town center is undeniably picturesque. As far as we could see, we were enveloped by rows of yellow-painted houses with red-tiled roofs that define Skagen's characteristic charm.

The neighborhood around our hotel was full of yellow-painted houses.

The reason locals paint their houses this way varies, whether it was simply practicality since the color was cheap or a more aesthetic choice that enhanced the town's charm (the Skagen Painters also contributed to the yellow-color trend).

Walking through Skagen felt like moving through a yellow-colored sea, which was fairly fitting since we were just a stone's throw from Kattegat. After seeing numerous towns in Denmark, we have to admit that Skagen's architecture was something else.

A moment we won't forget anytime soon was how, midway through our walk, the sky darkened, and then deep, rumbling thunder shook the town. It was a clear reminder that rain would dominate the day in Skagen.

I quickly checked the map, realizing we had been aimlessly wandering and had no idea where we were. A few seconds later, once I found our location, we hurried toward the hotel. With a mix of luck and a brisk walk, we managed to return just in time to dodge the worst of the downpour.

With the storm raging outside, we at least got to enjoy the buffet breakfast.

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Skagens Museum

Skagen is deeply tied to Denmark's art scene, having been the base for the Skagen Painters, a group of Scandinavian artists who settled here in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Perhaps the most renowned of them was Peder Severin Krøyer, a name we admittedly had never heard before, but then again, that was true for the entire movement.

Today's Skagen is far removed from the small fishing town it once was, but after soaking in Grenen's wild landscapes and exploring Skagen's quiet streets, we could sense why they felt compelled to come here.

If you're curious about their art mixing naturalism with the influence of Impressionism, Skagens Museum offers a great chance to explore the artistic community. Just make sure you don't go on a Monday like we did since all Skagen Museums, including this one, are closed then.

Drachmanns Hus

In Skagen, we also learned about Holger Drachmann, another major figure in Danish art. His grave, which we had spotted earlier on the Grenen trail, looked much like the Neolithic tomb we later saw on Møn Island. He was not only a poet but also a painter and had ties to the Skagen Painters.

Eventually, he settled in Skagen, and today, his home has been turned into a museum. Though Drachmanns Hus was closed on Monday, we still made a quick stop to see where he had lived. Interestingly, it sat a bit farther from the town center but still within a 15-20 minute walk.

Kystmuseet Skagen

As we left town, we made a quick stop at the Kystmuseet Skagen. Since it was just around the corner from Drachmanns Hus (or a five-minute walk), it barely felt like a detour.

This small regional museum features exhibitions on Skagen's history and maritime heritage, but since it was closed on Monday, we went just to see the old windmill (which can be seen from the street). Anyway, we found the Dutch-style windmill less picturesque than expected since it had no sails when we were there!

It took us a little while to notice that the windmill was missing its sails.

Skagen Port and Cruises

As we continued our travels across Denmark, we made a stop in Kolding, and despite being a coastal town, it lacked a distinctive maritime atmosphere. We mention this because when we reached Skagen and parked at the hotel the previous evening, the moment we stepped out of the car, we were hit by the intense smell of sea and fish.

It was difficult to ignore and not particularly pleasant. Before sleeping, I briefly opened the windows to refresh the air, but only for a few minutes to keep it from feeling like we were staying on a schooner moored nearby. Perhaps not the most accurate analogy or description, but Skagen immediately gave off the coastal vibe we love (minus the scent).

Skagen Port has always played a vital role in the town's history.

Skagen is no longer the small fishing village it once was, but the industry still holds great importance here. As one of Denmark's largest fishing ports today, the musty air was hardly surprising (though it had cleared up by morning).

Besides its essential role in Skagen, one reason we wanted to see the port was noticing a big ocean liner that morning from the Grenen trail, making its way through Kattegat toward Skagen, and wondering which one it was. When we reached the port, we identified it as the 270-meter-long MV Aurora, a mid-size cruise ship with over 1,800 passengers and 900 crew. It wasn't quite as massive as the ones we saw in Auckland or Rio de Janeiro, but still impressive.

The rain gave Skagen Port a rather moody feel.

We mention this because the arrival of one of these sea giants can transform the town's laid-back vibe, making it suddenly feel much busier. While most passengers visit Grenen, many also shop and eat out, so your experience during the beach/town walk might not be as quiet as ours.

Getting to and from Skagen

Anyway, since we had seen everything we wanted in Skagen, the museums were closed, and the weather was dreadful, we decided there was really no point in sticking around much longer. Lucie checked the weather forecast one last time, and while Skagen was a lost cause, she found that Aalborg's weather should be okay(ish) for the next few hours. As it turned out, she was almost right.

As Jutland's northernmost town, Skagen marked the end of the road for us, so heading south was the only direction left. Aalborg, about 90 minutes away, and Aarhus, roughly two and a half hours, were the closest major cities.

We opted to drive in our own car, which was the most convenient way to reach Skagen. If you don't have that option, you can compare rental car prices in Denmark here. There's also a train connecting Skagen to cities like Aalborg and Aarhus for an easy public transport alternative.

We even drove from Skagen to Grenen to save some time.

On the way, we took a short detour to Lindholm Høje, a Viking cemetery just outside Aalborg. While it didn’t compare to the scale of the Jelling Monuments or Trelleborg Fortress, it was still an interesting spot to explore, even in the rain.

By the time we reached Aalborg, the rain had miraculously stopped, allowing us to keep our umbrella packed away and explore the town uninterrupted, though that’s a story for another day.

Travel Resources

Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.

Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.

Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.

We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.

Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.

Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.

Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.

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How We Visited Skagen, Denmark