How to Visit Hadrian's Villa
Villa Adriana served as a personal retreat for Emperor Hadrian.
It didn't take us long to figure out Hadrian's Villa is an amazing place and a must-see for any history lover! Here's our trip there in detail.
Hadrian's Villa (Villa Adriana) ended up being one of the highlights of our trip from Rome to Tivoli. We had already seen plenty of Roman ruins in the capital, but this was the very first one we had planned to check out beyond the city limits. And we were pretty excited about it!
The complex known as Hadrian's Villa was built around 120 CE by Emperor Hadrian, and given his story, plus the fact that it was the largest villa ever created, it looked like we were in for a pretty extraordinary experience. I had big expectations for this place, but I didn't realize it would turn into one of my favorite Roman ruins of the whole trip. And it's not just my opinion, since Hadrian's Villa is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with several other spots in Tivoli. It really was a must-see.
Of the three 'villas' we had lined up to see in Tivoli, Hadrian's Villa came first on our schedule. The choice was really just practical. After a bit of research, we decided to take the bus from Rome to Tivoli. Since the bus stopped there before heading into town (where the other villas are located), it made sense to get off here and avoid retracing our steps later.
We came to this site knowing only the absolute basics, mostly just how to get there and how much the admission fee would be. Beyond that, we knew very little apart from some details about Hadrian himself, since we wanted to experience the place with as few expectations as possible. So if you're planning to visit Hadrian's Villa on a trip from Rome, like we did, you're in the right place (and it's just as helpful if you're starting in Tivoli), because we've gathered all the essentials from our trip in this guide. Let's dive in.
Hadrian's Villa pretty much instantly took us back to Roman times.
Getting to Hadrian's Villa from Rome
We already mentioned that we took a bus from Rome to Hadrian's Villa since the site is about four kilometers outside Tivoli's historic center (where the Villa d'Este and Villa Gregoriana are). It was also the cheapest way to get between the two spots, which never hurts. However we looked at it, the bus made the most sense. So the plan was to stop at Hadrian's Villa first, then catch another bus to Tivoli to see the rest.
Hadrian's Villa By Bus
In the morning, we walked to Termini Station and caught the metro heading toward Rebibbia on Line B. We got off at Ponte Mammolo, which is the stop where the bus to Hadrian's Villa leaves. The metro part was simple, but we weren't sure what to expect with the bus.
After reaching Ponte Mammolo, we got off the metro and climbed the stairs to the departure area. There, we discovered that the ticket machine only accepted Cotral or Metrebus cards, which we didn't have. The Cotral ticket choice was grayed out, so we needed to find tickets somewhere else.
Next to it was a hall with Cotral signs, but when we went inside, we realized it was only a waiting hall with no ticket kiosks. Beside it was a Cotral office, but they didn't sell tickets there either. Luckily, a staff member with very limited English pointed us to the ground floor. So we went back down, and, on the right side, we found a small tabacchi shop where they sold Cotral tickets.
The bus ticket from Ponte Mammolo in Rome to Hadrian's Villa cost €2.20 per person, and since we planned to return to Rome later that day, we bought extra tickets for the ride back. We also picked up two more tickets for €1.50 each for the Cotral bus between Hadrian's Villa and Tivoli, so we wouldn't need to hunt for machines near the site.
We took a Cotral bus from Rome's Ponte Mammolo to Hadrian's Villa.
We went back up the stairs to the first floor and headed toward platforms 2 and 3, right in front of us, where the bus to Villa Adriana and Tivoli should depart. There were two different lines running from Ponte Mammolo to Villa Adriana. The regular line between Rome and Tivoli comes fairly often, every 10-15 minutes, but it stops about 1.2 kilometers from the site, while the less frequent line stops just 300 meters away.
When we checked the schedules at both platforms, we saw the regular bus was pulling in, while the other wouldn't arrive for about 35 minutes. We had just seconds to decide, but the math was easy: a 10-minute walk was worth it if it gave us 25 extra minutes to explore the site instead of waiting around on a not-so-nice platform.
So we boarded the bus, validated our tickets (that's important!), and enjoyed the short ride. The stop was Via Tiburtina Via Serena. If we had chosen the alternate bus, we would have been dropped off at Via Villa Adriana Via Rosolina.
Hadrian's Villa by Car
Even though Hadrian's Villa is just 30 kilometers from Rome, getting there usually takes at least an hour due to traffic, especially when leaving from the city center. There's a huge parking lot with space for hundreds of cars, but we found out it's paid (only a few euros, though), which seemed a little strange given that it's right on the town's outskirts. Here tou can check rental car prices in Rome.
Hadrian's Villa by Train
Had we chosen the train from Termini or Roma Tiburtina, we would still have needed a bus to Hadrian's Villa later and (most likely) a Cotral bus back to Rome. The downside is that we wouldn't know how much time we'd actually have there, which would put some limits on our schedule.
Anyway, we were the only tourists who got off the bus on the main road linking Tivoli and Rome that morning. After a quick check of the large Hadrian's Villa sign next to the stop to confirm we were in the right place, we began walking toward the site.
Hadrian's Villa is roughly 4 kilometers from Tivoli's historic center.
Hadrian's Villa Tours
If you're not up for the adventure or don't have a full day to spare, there are plenty of guided tours available. They cover not only Hadrian's Villa but also Villa d'Este, giving you the highlights of Tivoli. For instance, this Villa D'Este and Hadrian's Villa Tivoli tour is super popular. A nice perk is that many tours don't last the whole day, so you can still explore more of Rome later (we'd probably pick an afternoon tour to keep the morning free).
Hadrian's Villa Tickets
As soon as we reached Hadrian's Villa, we grabbed a quick snack (as usual, just bananas), and within a few minutes, we headed back to the ticket kiosk (there were a few picnic benches next to the restrooms at the back of the building), where we picked up the combo ticket.
Unlike some other sites, such as Villa Quintili or the Baths of Diocletian, here the ticket had to be bought from a person, not a machine. The good part was that the staff could tell us more about what the ticket covered. It turned out the choice of ticket was not as straightforward as we expected.
We were offered two options: either a regular Hadrian's Villa ticket for €12 or a €30 combo ticket that included this site along with Villa d'Este and the Sanctuary of Hercules Victor (Santuario di Ercole Vincitore).
Tickets to Hadrian's Villa were fairly affordable even though it is a UNESCO site.
We had planned to focus on the main sights, Hadrian's Villa and Villa d'Este. We were unsure about the Sanctuary of Hercules Victor, not because it didn't sound interesting, but simply because we knew pretty much nothing about it. But the bigger problem was that I also suspected we'd run short on time. With the Villa d'Este ticket costing €12 on its own, we thought the extra €4 wasn't a big deal and went for the full combo ticket.
In hindsight, we should have gone with separate tickets and saved the €4. We only had a single day in Tivoli, and during that time we saw both 'main' villas plus Villa Gregoriana (which is very different, being mostly a park with caves and waterfalls). We also explored the historic center, which took up some time.
It turned out to be a full but doable day. That said, we had no time or energy left for the Sanctuary of Hercules Victor. So, unless you're staying a night in Tivoli to stretch the trip over two days, or swapping it for Villa Gregoriana (which we don't think is worth it), we'd suggest sticking with the standard ticket.
If you decide to stay overnight in Tivoli, a few of the most popular spots are Al Palazzetto and Palazzo Santori. There are also a couple of hotels, Hotel Cristallo Relais, and Villa Adriana Hotel, near Hadrian's Villa. But we'd probably stay in the historic center if we could. Anyway, enough ticket and hotel talk, back to Hadrian's Villa.
Visiting Hadrian's Villa in Late Summer
Another big reason we decided to visit Hadrian's Villa first, besides the bus stopping there, was that we expected to spend a lot of time walking on exposed grounds. We came to the villa in early September, which is still technically summer. The forecast we checked the night before promised a sizzling 32 degrees Celsius (the weather had been the same all week in Rome, so we knew what to expect).
We had already been to a few similar exposed places in Rome, such as the Forum Romanum and the Baths of Diocletian, but this was not the same. Those were in the city center, and when we felt worn out, we could retreat to the hotel, cool off, and recover. Here, it was a full-day trip, and that option didn't exist. On top of that, we had to save enough energy to keep exploring other sites.
Our plan was to arrive at Hadrian's Villa before 9 AM (this was one of those sites we really wished opened at 6 AM). By that time, the sun was already blazing and the heat was climbing, but it was still more manageable than what we would have faced later around noon or in the afternoon.
It was pretty hot when we visited Hadrian's Villa.
Just a week earlier, a major heat wave had ended with temperatures hitting the 40s Celsius, so I was relieved we didn't have to face that blazing heat. We wore caps, used plenty of sunscreen, and carried our trusty water bottle along with some energy bars to get through it.
Although shade was limited, we did our best to stay in it whenever we could, sometimes making a quick run to the information boards sitting in the sun and reading them fast before retreating again. Each time we planned our next stop, we stayed in the shade as long as we could before moving on. It may sound like I'm exaggerating, but the sun was relentless, and with not a cloud in the sky, this strategy really helped us last longer.
Clearly, if you visit Hadrian's Villa outside the summer months, your experience will be much more comfortable than ours. Spring and fall temperatures, we'd guess, are close to perfect. The villa is open in winter too, but be ready for fairly cold weather, likely more than you'd expect in this part of Italy.
History of Hadrian's Villa
Hadrian was one of the greatest Roman emperors, and this site truly shows it. Built between 117 CE and 138 CE at the base of the Tiburtine Hills, it became his private retreat, a practice fairly common among emperors of the era. The villa stretched over more than 1.2 square kilometers, featured over 30 classical buildings with gardens, and mixed design elements from Rome, Greece, and Egypt, representing cultures Hadrian deeply admired (don't forget that he traveled extensively).
Hadrian wasn't fond of the imperial palace on Palatine Hill, and like many rulers before and after, he wanted a quieter and more private escape. In every sense, Hadrian's Villa was designed as an "ideal city," both luxurious and comfortable, but also fully practical, with evidence showing he even carried out official duties there.
The Roman emperor Hadrian built the villa nearly 2000 years ago.
Following Hadrian's death, the villa saw use by later emperors, including Marcus Aurelius. Constantine was the last emperor to visit in the 4th century CE, and after his passing, the villa was abandoned and fell apart. For centuries, it was treated like a quarry, with statues and artworks carried off into private collections (such as by Cardinal Ippolito II d'Este, who redesigned Villa d'Este in the 1500s). Real archaeological efforts only began in the 19th century, after Italy's unification.
Hadrian's Villa was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1999. What's fascinating is that large sections remain unexcavated, which proves just how massive the site once was and how much we still don't know. With that bit of history covered, let's dive into exploring Hadrian's Villa itself.
What's There to See in Hadrian's Villa
Hadrian's Villa, as the largest imperial palace of Ancient Rome, naturally had a lot to see and explore. That's what we focus on in this section, where we share the most interesting structures we came across in the complex. I tried to keep the list practical, putting everything in the order we explored it. Keep in mind, I didn't aim to cover every ruin, just the ones that really stood out to us or were too important to skip.
Once we passed the turnstile and scanned our tickets, we paused to figure out what we really wanted to see inside the complex. Along with the tickets, we got a handy paper map of Hadrian's Villa, so this was the moment to study it carefully. The map showed three suggested routes: a short (90 minutes), a medium (2 hours), and a long (3 hours).
The paper map of Hadrian's Villa was really handy.
All the main ruins were numbered, but oddly, the suggested routes didn't follow them in order. Instead, they zigzagged around in their own pattern (with a focus on the Imperial Palace first). After a quick look, we agreed we wanted to see the entire site and all the major ruins. That made it clear the best approach was simply to follow the stops as they were listed. We have to admit, we saw the Great Baths (16) after the 6-9 cluster and before the 11-15 cluster just because it was on the route and there was no reason to pass them by, but that was the only exception to our usual plan.
Looking back, I think our plan was a good one. We were tempted to visit the Greek Theater and Temple of Venus first, since they showed up near the entrance on the map, but we left them for the end, and that choice worked nicely.
Earlier, I mentioned how monumental the site was, but reading about it and actually walking it were two very different things. We took the paved road to the right toward the first cluster of ruins, and that stretch alone was nearly 500 meters long. The place was far bigger than we expected. On the one hand, that was amazing, since we hadn't realized the scale, but at the same time, I started to doubt if the three hours we had set aside would be enough.
Plastic Model of Hadrian's Villa
By the time we got there, the museums were already open, so our first stop ended up being the small building near the Pecile. It only had some basic information on display, but the best part was a detailed model of Hadrian's Villa, showing how the entire complex looked almost 2000 years ago.
Model of Hadrian's Villa as it looked in the 2nd century CE.
Since this was the first part of the park we came across, seeing the model before the actual ruins turned out to be really helpful. Even though some structures are in good shape, most of what remains is just ruins, and it's hard to picture the full layout just by walking around. The model gave us a great introduction to the site and made it clear once again how unbelievably huge this "villa" was.
Pecile
From there, we moved on to the Pecile, one of the most striking ruins we saw at Hadrian's Villa. This vast garden, once surrounded on all four sides by porticoes, was named after the Stoa Poikile in Athens (the Painted Colonnade). The remaining north wall stretches a bit over 200 meters, so walking around the entire thing took a few minutes. At its center sat a large water basin that, in the morning, gave us stunning reflections of the Tiburtine Hills.
The Pecile was the spot where the emperor went on health walks.
The entire loop around the Pecile came to about 450 meters, so Hadrian could fit in his after-lunch walks with ease. He needed seven laps to reach his two Roman miles a day goal, which, even back then, counted as a healthy bit of exercise. This little detail was fascinating, showing how everything was meticulously thought out.
Maritime Theater
From there, we retraced our steps slightly and made our way to the Maritime Theater, one of the earliest and most stunning buildings at Hadrian's Villa. Despite its name, it wasn't used for theater performances but was actually a part of the Imperial Palace cluster, a villa within the villa, serving as a private retreat for Hadrian.
The building sat on a small artificial island, originally linked to the rest of the villa by wooden drawbridges that could be retracted, giving Hadrian complete privacy during his stay. Sadly, the island wasn't accessible to visitors when we were there, but at least our brief visit left Hadrian undisturbed.
The Maritime Theater was Hadrian's personal retreat from the normal 'villa life.'
In this cluster of 'palace' structures numbered 3 to 5, we also visited the Philosopher's Hall, whose exact purpose is still unclear. Some think it was a library, others a reception hall or a dining space. Nearby, we saw the Baths with Heliocaminus, which combined solar power and Roman engineering to give the emperor a private bathing experience.
Small Baths
Next, we moved on to the cluster of buildings numbered 6 to 9. The highlight for us here was the Small Baths (Terme Piccole), which served as private baths for Hadrian and his closest circle. Despite the name, they were far from small. After all, they were for the emperor himself. The baths included a frigidarium with two cold plunge pools, a tepidarium (warm room), caldarium (hot room), and sudatio (sauna), all heated by the classic hypocaust system with hot air circulating under the floors.
The Small Baths had some original paintings.
The best part of the Small Baths, though, was that the vaulted ceilings still had fragments of the original painted frescoes with classic Roman geometric designs. We also discovered a hidden detail here, though we didn't catch it until we read the information board later. So we went back, and I have to admit that even though the baths were quite small and we knew what we were looking for, it still took us a few moments to actually find it. It was a couple of beautifully preserved floor tiles we had totally missed the first time, since they were so easy to overlook.
Great Baths
Just a short walk from there were the Great Baths (number 16), which, unlike the smaller baths we mentioned earlier, were mainly used by the staff who lived and worked at Hadrian's Villa.
The Great Baths were centrally located, and their large size showcased the Romans' advanced engineering. Back in the day, they featured high walls, vaulted ceilings (some still partially intact), and were beautifully decorated with mosaics. They were still among the most striking parts of the villa, though, just like the rest, many of the details are gone today.
The Great Baths were just huge.
Over the past few days, we had visited several baths in Rome, like the Baths of Caracalla and Baths of Diocletian, so we had a pretty good idea of how these baths worked and looked. That knowledge came in handy here, since the explanations at Hadrian's Villa were not as detailed, mainly because these baths were 'just' part of a private complex, unlike the enormous public baths in the city.
Drinking Water in Hadrian's Villa
While exploring Rome, we had been using the public water fountains a lot, so we were hoping Hadrian's Villa would have some too. Checking the park map, we saw several taps for drinkable water, which was a big relief and meant we didn't have to worry about staying hydrated.
Hadrian's Villa had a few of these water taps with drinkable water.
One water fountain was located right at the entrance of Hadrian's Villa, another at the small museum with the complex model just before the massive Pecile ruins, and a few more were scattered further along the complex. The one by the museums at number 13 was especially convenient since it was on the opposite side of the site (our water bottle really came in handy here). There were also restrooms and the museums.
Serapeum and Canopus
Before anything else, Lucie suggested walking along the Canopus to the Serapeum (number 11), one of the most delightful areas of the villa. Since it was located just next to the Great Baths, we thought it was logical to see it first.
Canopus was another quiet spot in the complex.
The Canopus was basically a long pool designed as an elegant setting for the Serapeum. Its name came from the ancient Egyptian town of Canopus in the Nile delta, connected to Alexandria by a canal (which this structure was designed to evoke). Back in the day, the pool was lined with columns and a combination of Roman, Greek, and Egyptian statues. This area is said to perfectly reflect Hadrian's style and his memories of Egypt.
The Serapeum ended on its southern side at the Canopus and was a large dining hall for outdoor banquets, named after an ancient temple in Canopus dedicated to the god Serapis. Hadrian's dining couch was placed in the semi-circular grotto, giving him views of the pool and, of course, his guests. Even as ruins, it was still very charming, and the shade and water made it slightly cooler here.
The Serapeum was used as a summer triclinium.
Museums (Edificio del Mouseia)
This part of the park was labeled Museums, but only one building was open to visitors. Before going inside, we found another little gem. Standing at the start of the Canopus and facing the museum, we spotted a wooden walkway along the building, though we couldn't tell where it led. We decided to check it out. There was a small contemporary exhibition with just a few panels, but the vaulted ceilings still had painted walls!
Edificio del Mouseia also had these vaulted chambers with ceiling paintings.
We first climbed the stairs on the right to find the entrance to be on the far side of the building, as the museum basically follows a one-way path. Inside the modestly sized Antiquarium, we saw original fragments of statues, painted walls, and other objects uncovered during excavations of Hadrian's Villa. The visit was fairly short since the collection was small, as most pieces had been moved to other locations, but it was still worth seeing.
The main museum at Hadrian's Villa was fairly small.
Rocca Bruna
From there, we strolled toward the Rocca Bruna (14), which seemed like the most secluded ruin in the entire complex. This ruined tower, tucked into the southwest corner of Hadrian's Villa, was about 200 meters from the museums. While it wasn't as grand as some other ruins, it quickly became one of our favorites. Just the walk itself through the olive grove, with a chorus of cicadas in the background, was so nice.
The views of the Tivoli area from the tower's viewing platform were amazing, as was learning the purpose of the structure. Rocca Bruna is thought to have been an astronomical observatory, partly because of its location and also because Hadrian loved astronomy. The best part was having the place to ourselves, a nice change from the Colosseum or the Vatican Museums, so we sat on a bench in the shade and just enjoyed the moment.
Rocca Bruna served as an astronomical observatory.
And it wasn't just here. The whole complex felt incredibly quiet. Sure, there were tourists around, but far fewer than we had expected. Probably the best part was the absence of large group tours, which can quickly take over a site, though admittedly, this was one of those places where it would be easy to avoid them. Considering Hadrian's Villa's UNESCO status, this was a really nice surprise.
By now, we had reached the far western edge of the complex, but the entire eastern side was still unexplored, so that's where we headed next. The heat was really starting to hit us, and we could feel it with every step. Our goal was to make it from the westernmost point all the way to the easternmost edge of Hadrian's Villa.
Winter Palace
Next, we walked toward the large ruin (number 17), listed in the brochure simply as the Building with the Fish Pond (Edificio con Peschiera). Like we said in the title, it's also called the Winter Palace.
The complex was a large, luxurious residence, probably serving as the emperor's private quarters during the colder months. Once, it featured lavish decorations and an advanced heating system, among other things. It had a central spot near other important buildings, and recent findings suggest this was indeed where Hadrian's bedroom was located.
The Winter Palace had its own fish pond.
And the fish here weren't only for decoration. They were also meant for food. This is another little proof that the villa wasn't merely a vanity project (obviously, that's something very debatable from today's perspective), but a practical and comfortable residence. From the Winter Palace, we eventually reached Piazza del Oro.
Piazza del Oro
I thought we had already seen most of the site, but we were still far from done, as the remaining area turned out to be quite large, too. The upside was that this part wasn't as well-preserved as the section we had just explored, so it took less time to get through. Admittedly, that could just be my perspective after being in the sun for about two hours, surrounded by ruins that all started to look alike.
Piazza del Oro, or the Golden Square (number 20), was likely an extension of the imperial palace, offering a formal and luxurious space for the emperor to entertain distinguished guests. At its center was a large pool flanked by flower beds, porticoes, a triclinium, and a nymphaeum, with the entire area decorated with precious marbles, colorful mosaics, and sculptures.
Piazza del Oro was once a large square with a water basin.
Back in its prime, it must have been an absolutely stunning place to walk around, but today, very little remains. Even worse, there was hardly any shade across the large square. Walking in the scorching sun among dry grass and ruins couldn't have been more different from the experience it offered in the 2nd century CE.
This got me imagining how stunning the Golden Square must have been and how cool it would be if it were rebuilt to match its original appearance. But that's just a thought, and I'm glad it remains as it was, because I can always let my imagination recreate the scene.
Hall with Doric Pillars
Then we visited the Hall with Doric Pillars (number 19). It wasn't very large, but it still featured several Doric columns. Its exact function is still unknown, which is pretty common for many buildings here. It probably acted as a corridor to the Imperial Palace and was used for gatherings or meetings, given its proximity.
Hall with Doric Pillars brought a Greek element to the imperial palace.
The hall had many Doric columns (a style tied to classical Greek architecture), but because so much marble was used here, the area had been plundered long ago. Still, some of the Doric pillars have been restored to their original positions, which really makes the space look very photogenic.
Imperial Palace
Since the Imperial Palace (number 21) is one of the most important structures in Hadrian's Villa, we saved it for the end of our self-guided tour. The main thing we realized when we arrived was that it wasn't just a single palace like those on Rome's Palatine Hill.
Hadrian's Imperial Palace was more like a large complex of linked buildings, forming the villa's central hub, and we had already explored some parts of it. It wasn't only residential but also served as a center of governance, because Hadrian liked managing the empire from his villa instead of Rome.
The centuries were not kind to the imperial palace.
Constructed as one of the first, this cluster included Hadrian's private quarters, rooms for his family and senior staff, libraries in both Greek and Latin, and large dining and reception halls. Basically, beyond the palace itself, it also included the Imperial Triclinium, Baths with Heliocaminus, Hospitalia, Maritime Theater, Greek and Latin libraries, Firemen's Headquarters, and more.
Back then, the palace was probably one of the villa's most striking areas, but today it's mostly just foundations and fragments of walls. Leaving aside well-preserved structures such as the Maritime Theater, the palace was actually less captivating than we thought it would be.
Hospitalia
A highlight for me in the Imperial Palace was the humble ruin of Hospitalia (number 23). It probably wasn't a hospital as we think of it today, but more like housing for key personnel such as praetorians. While much of the building has fallen into ruin, it still showcases beautiful black-and-white mosaics with detailed geometric and floral designs.
Hospitalia had these stunning black and white mosaics.
Temple of Venus
From the Imperial Palace, we made our way toward the exit, with just two notable spots left to see along the way. Hadrian's Villa offered many stunning views, but the Temple of Venus (27) with the Tiburtine Hills behind it was probably the most beautiful.
The purpose of the temple is still unclear, and while there are theories, nothing is certain. We could understand why some scholars think it was meant simply for pleasure and relaxation, as the terrace offered breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape.
Temple of Venus with the Tiburtine Hills in the background.
Next, we walked past the Greek Theater (28), which was likely used for religious performances. Unfortunately, it had suffered centuries of plundering, so very little remains today. With this being the last ruin in the villa, we finally made our way to the exit.
As our visit came to a close, I took a moment to reflect on the route we chose through the villa. I think it was a good choice, as it let us see all the main ruins without backtracking. I can understand why someone might go clockwise, seeing all sections of the Imperial Palace first and gradually moving to the smaller buildings, but our route worked well. In the end, the choice doesn't really matter that much, since the paths are well-connected and the main buildings are all within a short walk.
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Cryptoporticus of Hadrian's Villa
Before finishing up, there's one more really interesting thing about Hadrian's Villa I haven't mentioned yet. Earlier, I talked about the walking trails, but those were just above ground. While exploring, we learned that the entire complex also had a huge network of underground tunnels and passages used by staff to manage things without disturbing the emperor.
That's a very basic explanation, though. Some of these corridors were completely underground, while others were only partially covered. Some connected different buildings, some were used for food storage, and others formed foundations for structures above. A few had frescoes and mosaics, some were only for moving supplies, and a few even offered a cool place for a walk on scorching days.
This is one of the cryptoporticus we saw in the park.
Because they are underground, these tunnels are thought to be some of the best-preserved structures in the park. Unfortunately, when we visited, it was nearly impossible to explore them, as the sections we saw were closed to the public, likely for safety and ongoing excavations.
Still, it really highlights how Hadrian, who is believed to have been deeply involved in the project, thought of every detail. And of course, it shows the incredible work of the architects, engineers, advisors, and laborers who made this amazing palace complex possible.
How Much Time to Spend at Hadrian's Villa
In the end, we spent just over three hours at Hadrian's Villa, which I think is about the perfect amount of time for this site. We walked through the entire complex and visited nearly all the main stops on the suggested route, while still being able to focus on what we were actually seeing.
I wish we could have stayed longer, but first, we didn't have much extra time since we also wanted to visit other sites, and second, three hours in that heat was more than enough. Since we had seen pretty much everything we wanted, there really wasn't much reason to extend our visit.
Villa Adriana turned out to be much bigger than we expected.
The tricky thing about Hadrian's Villa is that just looking at the map makes it easy to underestimate its size. We ended up walking over five kilometers, which would normally take at least an hour on a flat trail without stopping. Since we were in an archaeological park, we made plenty of stops, obviously at a very slow pace.
I'd say two hours could work too, but you'd probably have to skip or rush some sights. The good news is that the main cluster of ruins is fairly compact, so it's definitely doable.
Opening Hours of Hadrian's Villa
There are two sets of opening hours at Hadrian's Villa, one for the archaeological park and one for the small museums inside. Once we arrived, we learned that the archaeological site meant the entire 'villa' with all the Roman ruins, and that it opened an hour before the museums. The museums had some added information, but they were pretty simple, and we didn't spend long in them. After all, it was only the small building containing the park's model and the one with a collection of items found during the excavations.
Hadrian's Villa opens daily at 8:15 AM all year round, though the closing hour changes depending on the season. Between March and September, the site closes at 7:30 PM. These long hours were great, as we could plan our day in Tivoli however we wanted, knowing this place stayed open nearly all day.
We spent the whole morning exploring the villa.
One small hiccup was that I assumed the entire site opened at 9 AM, so in theory, we could have come even earlier. But honestly, missing our buffet breakfast where we stayed wasn't worth it, so I don't think we would have shown up right at opening anyway.
After the main season, Hadrian's Villa still opens at 8:15 AM, but the closing time shortens by an hour every two months in the fall, so in winter the park closes at 5 PM. Starting at the end of January, the hours extend again by about an hour every two months. Remember that the museums close about 30 minutes earlier than the site, and the last admission is 75 minutes before closing.
Is Hadrian's Villa Worth Visiting?
From the little info we had before the trip, we felt pretty sure that Hadrian's Villa would be a great spot to visit, and our guess turned out right. I'd even say the whole experience was better than expected, mostly because this place was simply massive and super interesting.
Exploring the 2000-year-old ruins of palaces, homes, banquet halls, baths, gardens, pools, and nymphaeums, surrounded by such stunning scenery, was just unforgettable. And while I wasn't convinced at first if a day trip to Tivoli would be worth it, it definitely was, thanks to this site. Hadrian's Villa was incredible and absolutely worth seeing, especially for anyone who loves Roman ruins, because that's what it's all about.
We really enjoyed our time visiting Hadrian's Villa.
What made it even better was that we also got to visit the lovely town of Tivoli along with two other "villas," turning the whole adventure into a fantastic day trip. Still, Hadrian's Villa could easily stand as a must-see all by itself. The best proof of how much we loved it is this guide, which ended up being much longer and more detailed than we had originally planned.
Traveling from Hadrian's Villa to Tivoli
We were done exploring Hadrian's Villa, but our trip was definitely not over yet. Tivoli still had lots of great things waiting for us, so that's where we went next. More precisely, the historic center, since we technically were already in Tivoli, just in another part of town. Our first task was figuring out the ride from Hadrian's Villa to Tivoli (all the details are in this guide). Here, we'll keep it brief.
After walking out of the complex, we realized that there was a bus bound for Tivoli waiting at the stop. So we got on the bus (it was the 4X line run by CAT), bought tickets from the driver, and once in Tivoli, got off at Piazzale Nazioni Unite. Our next stops were the incredible Villa d'Este and Villa Gregoriana, and we hope you'll join us on this journey too!
We took this small bus from Hadrian's Villa to Tivoli.
Travel Resources
Here you can find links to all the travel resources we use and which you might find helpful when planning your next holiday.
Accommodation: When looking for accommodation, we usually search hotels via Booking.com or Hostelworld.
Tours: Although we love to travel independently, some places are better to visit with a guided tour.
We prefer GetYourGuide for its easy-to-use interface and solid reputation. Another great alternative is Viator.
Rental Cars: When going on a road trip, we always use Rentalcars.com, a reliable site for booking a rental car in advance.
Flight Tickets: When looking for flight tickets, you can search Skyscanner to find the best price.
Travel Insurance: World Nomads and SafetyWing cover against risks of travel.